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my neighbour has one on the ceiling pointed at the front door as his front door is glass and then he can see them comming up the path and be there to greet them. it is very small and discrete he actually fooled me as I could never understand how he knew I was comming up the drive and was always there waiting. Have considered one for the car park here. I wouldn't have one inside though as I admit they are a bit creepy in that capacity.
 
my neighbour has one on the ceiling pointed at the front door as his front door is glass and then he can see them comming up the path and be there to greet them. it is very small and discrete he actually fooled me as I could never understand how he knew I was comming up the drive and was always there waiting. Have considered one for the car park here. I wouldn't have one inside though as I admit they are a bit creepy in that capacity..
my neighbour has one on the ceiling pointed at the front door as his front door is glass and then he can see them comming up the path and be there to greet them. it is very small and discrete he actually fooled me as I could never understand how he knew I was comming up the drive and was always there waiting. Have considered one for the car park here. I wouldn't have one inside though as I admit they are a bit creepy in that capacity.
I have no problem with that - that is like the cord across the road that rings a bell when a car drives up and allows the innkeeper to be "jonny on the spot" ready for the guest. This inn I'm talking about has it right out there at the front door and the camera is very obvious and the first thing you notice.
RIki
 
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them)..
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
.
Proud Texan said:
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
Arkie - as I recall you are working with a architect for your building renovation. He/she will need to go over the specs that are required via federal, state and local fire codes for your area. You must have at min. those requirements, then anything above, beyond that is up to you. Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
.
copperhead said:
Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
That's odd because hardwired alarms already have a battery backup.
The national code requires that they be on an isolated circuit and that you use 14 gauge cable for the installation. When connecting a series of alarms, as I did, you use 14/3 cable because it gives you an extra conductor that is used to bridge the alarms. I have mine on a 15 amp breaker and change the batteries out on a 6-month schedule.
 
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them)..
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
.
Proud Texan said:
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
Arkie - as I recall you are working with a architect for your building renovation. He/she will need to go over the specs that are required via federal, state and local fire codes for your area. You must have at min. those requirements, then anything above, beyond that is up to you. Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
.
copperhead said:
Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
That's odd because hardwired alarms already have a battery backup.
The national code requires that they be on an isolated circuit and that you use 14 gauge cable for the installation. When connecting a series of alarms, as I did, you use 14/3 cable because it gives you an extra conductor that is used to bridge the alarms. I have mine on a 15 amp breaker and change the batteries out on a 6-month schedule.
.
All hard-wired systems I've seen have battery backup.
I guess it's conceivably possible for the cause of the fire to also cut the wire so the battery located in the main control box cannot supply the sensor, but I think in cases where the main box loses contact with the sensor, the alarm at the main box goes off automatically, and the fire department is called, so it's fairly failsafe.
 
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them)..
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
.
Proud Texan said:
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
Arkie - as I recall you are working with a architect for your building renovation. He/she will need to go over the specs that are required via federal, state and local fire codes for your area. You must have at min. those requirements, then anything above, beyond that is up to you. Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
.
copperhead said:
Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
That's odd because hardwired alarms already have a battery backup.
The national code requires that they be on an isolated circuit and that you use 14 gauge cable for the installation. When connecting a series of alarms, as I did, you use 14/3 cable because it gives you an extra conductor that is used to bridge the alarms. I have mine on a 15 amp breaker and change the batteries out on a 6-month schedule.
.
Yes I know PT, it was a mistake that the local Fire inspector made when he came here the first time. Since we put the 2nd back ups in place, we decided what the heck we will keep them...even though the final inspection said they were not necessary.
 
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them)..
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
.
Proud Texan said:
Arkansawyer said:
I'm planning to put in a burglar/fire alarm system. Fire alarm will always be active, and call the fire department (through a monitoring service) if there's a fire. I'd only activate the burglar alarm on nights when there are no guests staying with us (hope there aren't too many of those nights, but at least at first I expect a lot of them).
We have hard-wired smoke/carbon monoxide alarms that will sound in ALL the cabins should one be set off. It really discourages smokers in our non-smoking rooms.
Arkie - as I recall you are working with a architect for your building renovation. He/she will need to go over the specs that are required via federal, state and local fire codes for your area. You must have at min. those requirements, then anything above, beyond that is up to you. Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
.
copperhead said:
Here we were required to have both hard-wired AND battery back up smoke alarms (not carbon as we are all electric).
That's odd because hardwired alarms already have a battery backup.
The national code requires that they be on an isolated circuit and that you use 14 gauge cable for the installation. When connecting a series of alarms, as I did, you use 14/3 cable because it gives you an extra conductor that is used to bridge the alarms. I have mine on a 15 amp breaker and change the batteries out on a 6-month schedule.
.
All hard-wired systems I've seen have battery backup.
I guess it's conceivably possible for the cause of the fire to also cut the wire so the battery located in the main control box cannot supply the sensor, but I think in cases where the main box loses contact with the sensor, the alarm at the main box goes off automatically, and the fire department is called, so it's fairly failsafe.
.
The alarm absolutely goes off at the box, I know this all too well. Everytime the power goes out, the alarm goes off to tell us it's on battery-power. Then it goes off again to let us know the power is back on. It does not, for power failures, call the FD as well. The FD gets called when there is a drop in the water pressure in the sprinkler system. I believe if the hard-wired alarm goes off, the FD gets called for that, too.
 
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